Wild Patagonia

Hello everyone!! It is Hallye and once again I apologize for not posting for so long. I think that last time I posted I wrote about our first impressions of Chile. I LOVE CHILE. It has just gotten better the further we travel down south. Santiago was very cool for a big city...our week in Angostura (wine country) was wonderful and relaxing...Pucon was great because we climbed an active volcano....and now we have just returned from the very southern tip of Chile (Patagonia). It was incredible how close we were to Antartica. We visited the Torres del Paine National Park where we completed a four day, three night trek. Luckily, we met some other travellers who wanted to test their fitness on the 85 kilometer hike with us. We started the ¨W¨ (the name of the trek) on what seemed to be the opposite side of most people. We setup camp around lunchtime and set off on the first leg of the journey- Glacier Grey. The hike itself was not too difficult (until it got dark on the way back!) and each viewpoint that we came to was more beautiful than the one before. We reached the best mirador to see the glacier glistening as the sun started to set. You could not have asked for a prettier scene.

The second day we started off about an hour later than we planned however we still made it to the next part of the ¨W¨ - Valle de Frances. On this part of the trek we watched avalanches come rumbling down the snowy mountains. It was a strange noise - a crack and then a thundering boom. However, the craziest thing about these avalanches is that they were so loud and we were still pretty far away from them. The Valle de Frances was a difficult hike (the muscles around my hips felt like they were ripping apart the entire time), but the view at the end of hike made it worthwhile...I will try to post some pictures later! Camping that night was interesting. I kept waking up trying to decide if the noises that I was hearing was wind, the nearby river or avalanches.

Our third day was the longest hike. We started off at eight that morning and reached our stopping point at about four that afternoon. However, we made great time because we originally thought this part would take at least nine hours and we had to carry our backpacks the entire time. It was a pretty hike. We went on gorgeous beaches of the lakes and through patagonian farmland filled with cows. The last part of this hike was fairly difficult. Actually that is an understatement. I was really not sure if I would make it up the steep, rocky hills. It helped being with three other people because we silently pressured and pushed eachother to keep trekking up the vertical and never-ending hills.

We camped that night at a campsite about forty five minutes from the infamous Torres del Paine. We set our alarms for a little before six in the morning (so we could see the Torres with the sunrise) and then made some hot drinks to attempt to keep ourselves warm. The next morning we woke up and started hiking up to the mirador in the dark...and rain. Luckily our trekking buddies (Chris and Aaron) wore their headlamp lights to light up the trail (but my book light worked pretty well too...thanks Allison!). Looking back at this part of the hike, I am glad that it was pitch dark out because it was so incredibly steep - I do not know if I would have made it up the hill if I had seen how long and steep it looked. Once we reached the top we had to wait for at least thirty minutes for the sun to show itself through the rain clouds. It was cold, windy and rainy. We ate chocolate and trailmix to keep ourselves warm. The sun began to peak from behind the mountains and shine a bit on the base of the Torres and at one point there were signs of a rainbow. The clouds never fully lifted but the views were still amazing! We will post some pictures soon...but for now here is a link to a google image- http://guia.ojodigital.com/albums/userpics/Torres-del-Paine.jpg

We quickly made the descent back to the campsite, drank some hot tea, packed up and started the last leg of our trek. This last part was not too difficult even though by this point Katie and I were both hurting a bit from our rented hiking boots. And truly, the worst part was the last 7 kilometers to the bus that we chose to walk instead of catching the shuttle bus.
Overall- I think that past week has been the best part of our trip thus far. I catch myself saying this every week or so about something that we do...but deciding to spend the little extra money and time to travel to the end of the world was a great decision.
We have a bus to Bariloche, Argentina in a few hours so I am sure we will have some posts about Argentina soon! All my love, Hallye

Doing the W

So we did it. Hallye and I have completed our four day trek of what is known to Patagonian trekkers as the W trail in Torres del Paine national park. In total,we clocked around 85 Kilometers in four days. That is over fifty miles! This was no walk in the park either..it was a hard trek up and down and around some massive rocks and hills. The W trail is named so becuase it takes the form of a W when trekked from one point to the other. The first day after getting off the catamaran which took us to ou first campsite, we set up camp and started off on our first hike. On the bus to the park entrance, we met up with an Aussie who shared his plan of attack for the trail with us and invited us to join him. That made four of us and our little group bonded quickly. The first day was a 7 hour total hike which we did in just 5.5 up to Greys Glacier. Along the way, we took turns setting the pace, got to know eachother, and made up a team name and cheer. We were known among the four of us for the next three days as TEAM PAINE. And little would we know then that we were truly a force to be reckoned with. We sustained minor injuries, cold nights, and rain while breaking almost every time estimation that the trail guide had set for us. After seeing the glacier on the first day, we gladly returned to camp in the dark and prepared for our first night in the patagonian cold.

As I have said, one of the greatest parts about travelling is the people you meet. I do not think I could have made it through the four hard days and three cold nights without the people I was with through it all. At night, Aaron, Chris,Hallye, and I would pack into one of the tents after fixing a warm meal and play cards by flashlight and listen to music and sip on whiskey *which served as an instant warming device*. We had good times and forgot the fact that we would be cold in the middle of the night and have to wake up the next morning super early just to begin another day of trekking. The two guys kept Hallye and I moving at a quick pace *even though Chris said we were making them walk faster than they would by themselves. Hallye and I are very proud of ourselves for accomplishing such a feat and I think Aaron even referred to us once as GI Janes.

On the second day, we woke up early to trek up Valle Frances where a panoramic view of all the snowy mountains could be seen. After just a couple hours of trekking, I had to stop because my boots had rubbed the back of my heel so much that the entire area was exposed revealing the underside of a blister. I had a lot of blood on my socks and it hurt so bad so I had to turn around and go back to camp. I missed out on seeing the view that day. The others say it was absolutely amazing. I did not loose out completely however because I had made it far enough to see a mountain that was producing avalanches every several minutes. I found a rock to sit on and just watched and listened for the loud thundering cracks followed by ice and snow tumbling down. It was a good thing I chose to rest because the next day required us to trek for eight hours with our packs on towards the next campsite. I woke up feeling better and was able to keep up with the others on that long day.

The weather we had down there was beautiful. We were worried when arriving in Puerto Natales because the Strait of Magellan was clouded over and we could barely make out the form of Tierra del Fuego across the way. We feared it would be like that all over the southern tip but we actually had sunshine for three days. On the final day, we got up at 6 so we could hike up to the actual torres and see them drenched in pink and orange of the sunrise. That morning proved to be our first experience with wind, rain, and cloud cover.We didn´t get to see the melange of colors on the huge towers but they were visible nonetheless. After that we headed back to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales to stay the night. Now Hallye and I are waiting for our 1 oclock ride to Bariloche, Argentina. We are looking forward to the cheaper prices and huge steak dinners. We also have plans to reunite TEAM PAINE in Buenos Aires for a celebratory week. The next couple weeks therefore are going to be filled with enjoying ourselves. Trekking the W allowed us a reward. It is waiting for us now in Argentina. Until next time...
Katie

Getting Serious

It´s Katie again and I´m letting you know that Hallye and I are getting serious. Gettin´serious about climbing, that is. We are not playing games here. This hike we are about to undertake is not for children. Starting on Saturday we are going to be doing some intense hiking. Six hours a day for four days and camping hard core style at night in Torres del Paine national park near Chile´s southern tip. This leisurely stroll to the top of this volcano was just a warm up, now its time for us to pull out the big guns.

We like to pretend that it is actually that serious. In reality, this is the most physically exhausting activity that I will have done in my life but I am not sure that it will be as intense as I have set it up to be. I guess we will find out in a couple of days. After google imaging fotos and seeing other travellers´pics of the Torres, I am positive at least of one thing; that it might end up being the most beautiful natural phenomenon that I have ever laid eyes upon. And even though at the end of the four days I might not be able to walk, undoubtedly it will be worth every rock climbed.

We left Pucòn today and are now in Puerto Montt. We have our flight to Punta Arenas tomorrow and will then take a bus to Puerto Natales to stay the night and begin our hike the next day to Torres del Paine. Pucòn was a real treat. We met some great people and even gained a travel buddy for the next few days. Chile is really proving to be a wonderful experience for both Hallye and I and even though we might not make it to every country we previously planned on visiting, we are relishing every day in Chile and not regretting any of the time we have spent in any part of this continent. Really, middle and southern Chile look a lot like Kentucky. Everyone we have met (Chileans and foreigners alike) have raved about this region of Chile saying it is the most beautiful. It really makes me appreciate the beauty we have in Kentucky which I often take for granted becuase it is so familiar to me. Hearing other people talk about how beautiful out type of landscape reminds me of how great I have it at home.

Well, I must be getting back to the hostal for some rest. Tomorrow we have a day of travelling and gathering supplies for the hiking and camping. We must get together our tent, cooking gear, sleeping bags, gas for the stove, food and everything else that goes together with a big trip like this. I´m so excited. Hallye is too. It will be a challenge but you can expect some good stories to come out of it.

Hope everyone is well and welcoming the summertime over there. It is approaching winter down here but still comfortably warm.

Sweet Home, Angostura

It´s Katie, and I´m breaking the law right now. Hostal law, that is. The sign says no computer use after midnight in order to keep things peaceful for the other guests. However, I am ninety nine percent certain that Hallye and I are the only guests in the hostal right now. My plan is to deny that I can read the sign written in spanish that says what time the computer must be turned off in the case that I am caught by the hostal owner. For the past two hours I have been trying to fall asleep but that is not happening for me right now so I will fill you in on the last week and hope that by the end I will be droopy eyed and ready for bed.

Last week, Holy Week for all you Christians out there, was spent in the cozy home of a Chilean family in little Angostura, Chile right outside of San Fernando. Hallye and I spent the week eating grapes from the viñard, getting fattened up by Señora Carmen´s home cooking, and climbing the hills to see the views in central Chile´s wine country. By the end of the week, Carmen and Carlos´s three sons had returned from Santiago to spend easter break with their parents so we had the pleasure of mixing with some chileans of our own age as well. During the week, before the boys came, Hallye and I visited a nearby beach (Pichilemu) for a day and on another afternoon visited Casa Silva winery in town. Gabriel, Alejandro, and Lalo were all home on Friday and they treated us to a night of music, wine, and pisco in their home. Saturday and Sunday were also celebrated Chilean style as we attended a reenactment of the crucifixion of Christ at Angostura church and were shown how the chileans grill out with an ¨asado¨ the night before we left. The grill out, which was attended by multiple members of the Silva Henriquez family, was a feast containing nothing but meat. Pork and beef kabobs and filets were roasted and toasted and stuffed in our bellies. There was no such thing as potato salad and apple pie at this grill out...just MEAT!!! ...and wine of course. It was delicious.

We were sad to say goodbye to our substitute chilean family of the week. They were more generous than we could have ever imagined; allowing us to feel as if their home were ours. And it was truly special to spend the easter weekend with a family, instead of alone in a hostal. By Sunday we had made friends with the boys and even some of their friends and are hoping for them to visit the United States someday so we can treat them to just a fraction of the hospitality they showed us. Carmen, I believe, was just as sad to see us go and she even sent Hallye and I packing with some chocolate easter eggs and a bag full of grapes. We found them so eager to help us out with anything and the boys´uncles even helped plan the remainder of our time in Chile.

Right now we are in the southeastern lake town of Pucón, Chile. It feels a little resort-y with the smattering of restaurants and tour agencies lining the strip, O´Higgins Boulevard. It is a resort town, however, that hosts a number of travellers eager to climb the Villarrica Volcano overlooking the lake at it´s base. The views are beautiful here not only of the snowy volcano and shimmering lake, but of the swiss and german influenced architecture as well. Tomorrow Hallye and I will wake up early to stamp on the cramp-ons and climb the snow capped beast ourselves. We set out at 7:00 tomorrow morning and will get back late afternoon tomorrow. I can´t really explain how excited we are. Today you could see smoke coming out of the top of the volcano and tomorrow we will actually be right there!

Our excitement is also growing for our upcoming trip to Punta Arenas, Chile where we will take on a four day hike to the Torres del Paine (google image this, its incredible!). After we are done here in Pucón, we will fly from Puerto Montt down south to the end of the world..literally almost...to the southern tip of Chile to do this hike. It will be six hours a day for four days and camping at night. This might be the biggest thing Hallye and I have either done in our lives. I can´t believe we are doing it still, but we won´t regret it when we get to the lake and see the torres. We will be renting all the equipment there. The weather is cold and rainy but everyone we have heard that has been there has raved about it. Not only that, but the Chileans we met could not stop telling us how southern Chile (Patagonia) is the most beautiful of all the country.

Before I get too far into this adventure, I can´t get ahead of the volcano that is looming in the distance for tomorrow. I will report back on this and hopefully have pictures to share soon. Until then, I must try to get back and get some shut eye for the ascent tomorrow. Nothing would be worse than to fall headfirst into molten lava because I couldn´t stay awake..haha.

Well, hope the weather up there is getting nice and warm. The climate here right now is equivalent to October up there. Just perfect. Also hope everyone had a nice Easter and talk to you soon.
Katie

Give a little...

A peaceful day for Pax, it´s been. I sat down directly in front of a giant bowl of aji (like salsa but waaaaaay better. It makes any mediocre meal excellent!) for almuerzo in the mercado (lunch in the market). I know you know, but let me remind you how awesome it is to eat a full meal in SA: enormous bowl veggie soup with big hunks of yucca, like potato but better, made more delicious with fresh lime and aji...a segundo (second course) of fried fish, moist steamy rice, and salad dressed with salt and lime and aji, mmmmmmmm....and then some mate (tea) usually the same delicious flavor of cinnamony herbs, though I have no idea waht they steep the water in to make it so riiiico. All of this for S./2.50...that´s 2.50 soles...that´s under a dollar. MUUAAHAHAHA....ughmm, excuse me, got a little carried away.
After lunch I found some Sao Paulo, a wood used to burn indoors and flavor the air. This way my room will smell like a church ceremony! Also, some all natural tobacco, already rolled for me. 100 cigarillos for S./15...I lost my american spirit pouch of no additive tobacco waaaay back in Quito so this is very good news. No more filters for me! (Tongue in cheek)
I went outside to sit in the sun and work on a bracelet. After a minute a woman walked up and offered me some bananas - thanks! have some chocolate! - she thanked me and God -Happy Easter! - a moment later an old old old woman, bent over at the waist for the rest of her life surely, walked over with her cupped palm leading the way -here, have some bananas! - I offered, she smiled a toothless grin....everybody wins! Later, a group of niños gathered round to watch the making of the pulsera (bracelet) I was working on . I finished and tied it round the wrist of the shyest little chica. With the remaining string we all worked on a few new bracelets. They were fast learners...these kids, living on the street, doing what they can for food and warmeth...they amaze me. So bright! Their eyes tell stories their mouths will never reveal, for it´s nothing worth speaking of, to them...
I have made a habit of saving every bit of food that´s not being eaten and passing it out. Every one apreciates a banana, a slice of chocolate, or left overs. I actually plated some food left behind by a gentlemen sitting across from me and gave it to a disabled man playing a flute on the corner. I asked the servers permission, a little nervous about what his response might be, and he only said - what a good heart - and smiled. Everyone looks out for each other here. It somehow seems more human, more raw flesh and still yet, more soul...it stands out here, as I´m not accustomed to the poverty. What stands out more is a man who obviously has little, waking a girl on the cold stone sidewalk, so that she may receive the last coin he has in his posession.
Much love, Heather Pax

Spoke to soon...

Hi all! Heather reporting. Change of plans! As rich as Ayacucho was, the pay at the language institute was nearly half of what teachers make in Cusco. Ergo, here I am, Pacha Mama´s bellybutton. Lots of gringos here, as Katie reported, and therefore lots of tour guides eager to elarn to communicate with the masses. It´s strange to be in such a spot, and I quite miss the smaller pueblos. There is a McDonald´s at the corner of the Plaza de las Armas. EEEK! Where am I!? BUT, I just ignore it and smile politely at the throngs of Peruvians eager to hand out their ads for massages, pedicures, and happy hours...all the things people like when they are on vacation. This makes it difficult to walk around the plaza, as I´m quite nervous I´m going to give in and splurge on a full body rubdown....oooh, how nice it would be, after months of terribly uncomfortable beds and all day long back pack hauling hikes...avert yer eyes mah lady, i keep telling myself, and don´t listen either!
Speaking of back aches, ouch. I hiked around the ruins outside of Cusco today. Tickets are outrageously expensive for non students, and yours truly, for some unknown reason, did not bring her student ID. I paid about $50 for a ten day pass to 16 sites around the area. I´m going to back tomorrow, and the next day, and the next....no but seriously, I´m more focused on getting the most out of this pass than I am getting a job. Have no fear, the balance will be found. Until then, I will sit on the hill, staring down at what used to be occupied by some of the most distinguished peoples in history, absorbing the sun and loving life. Love you guys too! Until next time...PEACE! , Pax

Katie´s Bad Dream

It went something like this...In this dream I was sitting on a bus with my ipod playing softly songs of Jackson Browne or Julieta Venegas or something. From what I remember of it my eyes were sore from coming in and out of sleep and some crazy action film with Steven Segal was on the television. I looked to my left out the window and to my horror, I saw four lane highways. I saw medians neatly trimmed with green grass free of litter. There were road signs made of metal with printed letters on them intead of mile markers painted on wooden slats. In the distance there were skyscrapers and Hyundais, Chevys and Toyotas weaving throughout the lanes. NOOOOOOOOOOO!!! I thought to myself...my trip is over! How could this be?!? I am back in the United States, back home. This is terrible, this trip was supposed to last for months. I put my fists to my eyes to clear my vision from the sleep. Then I realized that I wasn´t dreaming. This was real life. I hadn´t left South America, just the third world. I said to myself, ¨Oh I´m in Chile now. What a relief¨.

So that´s how it went, this bad dream of mine that wasn´t a dream after all. Turns out that on this 26 hour bus ride into Santiago, I had woken up with dawn and forgotten that I was in the first world again. Chile is indeed a different world from the rest of South America that we have seen so far. Santiago is just like Chicago or New York. The cities around the country are just like the cities in the United States. The development level is almost equivalent and the Chilean middle class is just like the North American middle class. In this regard, Chile is no different from what I know at home. However yesterday, I decided that Chile is the most beautiful country I have ever seen in my life.

Sure Ecuador and Peru are beautiful. Ecuador is beautiful in a raw, natural way. The untouched moutains are impressive and green. You can always see glimpses of the jungle wherever you are in the lush forests seen on the coast as well as the highlands. Peru is beautiful because of it´s ruins and ancient Inca sites. Within an hour´s drive anywhere you can see the most amazing ruins that you don´t think possibly could still be intact. But Chile...is the most beautiful so far. Driving into Chile from Ecuador, the entire time we had the sea on our right and the Atacama desert on our left. The dunes were all one color and rose higher and higher until they turned into big brown mountains. We were able also to see the sun set over the Pacific which is the first time I have seen that yet on this trip. Upon leaving the northern desert region, the hills got shrubbier and the sea disappeared. We were headed inland to Santiago. As I said, Santiago is just a city. A beautiful city, but just a city. It wasn´t until yesterday that Hallye and I got a glimpse of the real Chile.

My friend Adria came to Chile over a year ago to teach in the English Opens Doors Program. During her stay in Angostura just about two hours west of Santiago, she had the pleasure of meeting a family that was not her homestay family. She became great friends with the Señor and the Señora of this house and their three sons. Adria spent the summer basically in the house of this family and kept in good contact with them. When she heard that Hallye and I would be going to Chile, she contacted the boys to let them know we were coming and the oldest boy Gabriel quickly contacted me to find out when we would arrive. In Santiago, I got a message from Gabriel inviting Hallye and I to Angostura to eat lunch with the family yesterday on Palm Sunday. At lunch, Señora Carmen invited Hallye and I to stay at the house for a few nights in order to get to know some of the surrounding towns before continuing on.

Basically, we cannot believe our luck and the generosity of these people. After lunch, Gabriel and his brother Lalo took us on a tour of Angostura on their motorcycles. Angostura is apparently known world-wide for it´s wineries. Later, Gabriel took us to his grandfather´s parcela (farm) where we were then able to climb the hill and see the landscape. This is when I decided Chile was the most beautiful I have seen yet. The bluest sky was set behing the green hills and the brown viñas below. I couldn´t believe that this continent just keeps getting better and better.
Back at the house, Gabriel´s entire family stood around the computer to help us plan the rest of our travels in Chile. Everyone gave his/her opinion on the places they believe to be most impressive.

So today Hallye and I are burdened with the task of deciding which places will make it on the itinerary. We have to decide between the lakes of Pucón, the shores of Viñas del Mar, the glaciers of Torres del Paine and the nightlife in Valparaiso. Not all, unfortunately will make it on the list. But until we decide, we are resting comfortably in the most beautiful place of them all...the house of this wonderful Chilean family.

Cusco to Santiago

Hey everyone! It is Hallye and I am sorry for not keeping up with the blog. I am just having too much fun. Our trip has been everything that I could have hoped for so far. Katie and I visited Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley last weekend. We arrived the Machu Picchu Pueblo, Aguas Calientes, by train the night before our visit to the ruins. It was pouring rain and when we woke up the next morning at four thirty it was still pouring. We had to arrive at the ruins early enough to obtain a ticket to climb Waynapicchu (the mountain that you see behind the ruins in pictures). When we passed through the admission gate at Machu Picchu, I was so excited to be there! I was looking around and trying to see the wonderful stonework around me when I tripped, fell and sprained by ankle! But the sprained ankle did not dim my experience of the ruins. We went on a guided tour of the ruins, climbed Waynapicchu (which had incredible, but also mostly clouded views of the ruins below) and took some great photos.

We loved Cusco (and the wonderful people we met there) but as always were ready to move on. Katie and I went searching for a bus ticket to Arequipa, Peru but quickly decided that we rather continue on to Chile. So we hopped on a bus to the border and we were in Iquique, Chile the next day. We quickly noticed differences between Chile and the other countries (Peru and Ecuador) that we have visited. The roads are better (as well as the drivers...they actually believe in letting pedestrians have the right of way), the language is spoken quicker and with more slang and there are more rules and regulatons. What I mean by rules and regulations is, for example, we had to pass through a checkpoint on our bus where they semi-searched our bags, there are signs telling people to turn on their car lights when its dark, we get receits back with our purchases, there are no passing signs next to dangerous spots on the road....These were all things that Peru and Ecuador lacked. BUT Chile is a more expensive than the last two countries. I guess that is what we trade for first world-ness.

We are in Santiago, Chile now and loving it. The weather is perfect (sunny, not too warm, not too cold), there are beautiful parks and plazas and the people are very friendly. I will try to be better about writing on the blog. I must go now because I believe there are some Brazilians waiting for the computer (which is why this blog post might sound a bit scattered!). I miss everyone at home and please let us know of any thoughts you have on our trip with comments! Love, Hallye

Llameme Profesora Walker

Hola a todos!

I´ve been preparing for this interview with a language institute for a few days now, rather nervous and very hopeful. As it turns out, I pretty much had the job before I walked into the office with my fancy new pants and personal statement memorized, hanging off the tip of my tongue. I will be teaching Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays in the evening. At the beginning of May I´ll also pick up some Saturday classes. This schedule means two important things: I can still teach at a ´colegio´ during the day hours, and Ayacucho is now my home for at least the next three months. Looks like vacation is almost over!

And just in time for semana santa! Last night was the very first procession, pictured at right. A mass of people walked past the plaza carrying this massive structure honoring the Catholic saints. Everyone not helping to haul this prettiest of fiery beasts, held a small candle and a smile. Portions of the streets were decorated with dyed sawdust which they spread over the dirt like a shaved carpet, creating beautiful images that depict different saints and aspects of nature. This is just the beginning. It will only get more exciting and far more grandiose.

SALUDOS! <3 Heather Pax

Ayacucho